HOW TO STITCH A TOP/KURTI / SEWING BASICS



A top can be worn with pants, skirts, etc. Tops come in different shapes, sizes, patterns and designs. But the basic method of stitching a top is the same. Alterations to the sleeves, neck, length, etc makes it look different. A kurti is a slightly longer top which more or less resembles a kameez and is usually worn with jeans pants, patiyalas, gatherings,etc.


Construction


0 to 1 – Top length
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3”
11 to 13- 1”

Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.

Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck.

Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.

Join 12 to 13 as shown.

Method

For stitching a top, first measure and note down the body measurements.

Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse and fold such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.


Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above (Or first make a paper draft). Then join all the lines and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

First finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then cut the sleeves, double fold the ends and stitch it with the arm holes. Refer SLEEVES for its construction. Then stitch the sides and if required leave a small opening at the two sides. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Finally finish the ends by double folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your top is now ready.


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29 comments:

  1. u have got amazing talent. The detailed illustration shows ur desire for perfection.
    Good Start. All the very best.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Amina,

    I like your KURTI draft can you please give the modifications needed to make a princess line kurthi?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks Rajani,I will be posting it soon...

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Amina,

    They are an excellent! Thank for posting. Could you post how t create belt shalwar?

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi what does 1/12 mean for 0-2 Normal sleeves and i don't understand. Can you explain? Thank you

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  6. For the 0 to 2 measurement in the normal sleeves draft, take the chest measurement and divide it by 12 and add 1/2" to it. eg, if chest =30", 0 to 2 measurement = 3". You can also refer http://aminacreations.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-take-body-measurements.html.

    ReplyDelete
  7. v. nice page
    please visit my page too, im fashion designer

    www.facebook.com/thecreativesoul

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Amina,

    Excellent post, which iam looking for.... thank u soo much Amina...
    Delighted to be ur 146th follower...

    ReplyDelete
  9. hi amina nice to see this blog. thank you. after searching of long time i get my solution for my doubts.
    i like stitching.now i have baby of 10 month.with Ur guidance hope i made different types of frocks.

    ReplyDelete
  10. salams amina, perfectly understood, and the outfits i have sewn comes out well, just wanted to know does the method change for a fat person cos normally around the chest area and arm it dosent seem to come out well

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Salaam... thanks for your comment... the method for stitching a kurti for a fat person is the same as mentioned. Yes, chest area and arm area for a fat person may be slightly loose. In this case, small alterations have to be done to make it perfect.

      Delete
  11. Wow your site is amazing. Would love to try out your patterns !!

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  12. hi amina , nice blog . i m a beginner in this - can you tell me what measurement of cloth should i buy for stitching this kurti?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Generally 2 and 1/2 metres of cloth is sufficient for stitching a kurti... The calculation method to get the exact amount of cloth required = 2 times kurta length + sleeve length + 20 cms

      Delete
  13. Hi! I am confused about cutting the arm hole. Can you please explain where the point d is located? Rest of the instructions are very clear :)

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  14. Thank you Amina. The description is very clear and easy to understand.god bless you.

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  15. I need cutting measurement and method of kurti with plain open collar... Ur site is vry helpful. Thnk U Amina...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thanks for your comment... will post a tutorial on that soon... :)

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  16. everything is simply superb.... can u post the saree blouse pattern......

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thank you... will post a tutorial on it soon... :)

      Delete
  17. Hi Amina,
    Great drafts.
    Can you pls tell me how to cut armhole for a sleeveless kurti

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you... I have just posted a tutorial on how to stitch a sleeveless top... do check it out...
      http://aminacreations.blogspot.in/2014/05/how-to-stitch-sleeveless-kameez.html

      Delete
  18. Assalamu alaikum
    Amina can u please tell what is 1/6 round neck mean and how to measure that.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Check out the page on how to take body measurements.
      http://aminacreations.blogspot.in/2010/04/how-to-take-body-measurements.html
      by following the instructions you can measure the round neck and then divide it by 6.

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  19. Excellent blog very helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. God bless you!

    ReplyDelete

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